Fifth generation French-American winemaker in Napa Valley

Months before COVID-19 restricted our lives in unpredictable ways, I attended the Naples Wine Auction in Florida (which raised $20 million for charity in five hours). There I met winemaker Morgan Maureze, from Napa Valley, California, who, over cocktails, explained clearly why today’s wines are better than they were three decades ago.

Last year, when I visited friends in Napa Valley, we met again for lunch. Maureze was born in France and has deep roots in both French and American wine cultures. He explained how the two compare and shared his own career path.

“My father is from the Saint-Émilion region in Bordeaux and my mother is from the southern Loire Valley. We moved to the Napa Valley in the United States when I was five. I grew up in the wine industry and ended up going to the University of California, Davis. When I finished there, I decided to go back to France. The first internship was with the winemakers at Petrus (located in Pomerol, Bordeaux). They had a very different approach than what I was seeing in the United States and I decided to explore further and get my master’s degree at the University of Bordeaux, considered one of the best winemaking schools in the world. That’s when I started working in wineries in France. I ended up interning at a very modern facility with fully automated pump-overs, a very technical approach. That was a big learning curve. I just understood more of the science and numbers behind winemaking because I was working in labs.

“After that, I wanted something different from Bordeaux varieties. I ended up working at Domaine Romanée Conti in Burgundy. If you want to learn terroirWe go to Burgundy. We talk about how certain plots or rows have a real difference from the neighboring rows, even though they are right next to each other. That was another eye-opening experience. Winemaking there is fundamentally very simple. You learn to keep it simple, not to overwork the wines and just let the terroir express itself.

“At that level, the mindset is to aim for perfection by keeping things simple and technically clean. I thought that was interesting rather than working towards a certain number. Just let it go and you’ll be there to step in when needed.”

“I was thinking about staying in France and working in a chateau, but my heart went back to Napa Valley because the weather is amazing and it’s the land of opportunity. I sent my resume. I got in touch with Andy Erickson in Napa Valley, a famous consultant. At the time he was involved with Ovid and then Screaming Eagle. I interned for him at Ovid and then became his right-hand man for almost 10 years. It was great, working at those ultra-high luxury levels. Again that same pattern: focusing on quality and terroir, letting the vineyards speak. You’re there to interpret and keep it simple. What I like about being a consultant is when I also control the practices of the vineyard.

“I worked at Marciano Estate full-time to help develop that winery and the sales program. After that, it was time to strike out on my own. I started a consulting company and also focused more on my family. I have a beautiful four-year-old daughter, Genevieve. My wife is American. She is a chef. I provide the wine and she provides the food. Life doesn’t get any better than that.”

“I’m focusing primarily on Napa, but I love seeing different things. I’m going to expand, possibly to Washington and Oregon. I’m not sure it’s going to be as grand as going to India or China, but you never know. The Southern Hemisphere could be good. Never say never. It’s just about finding good clients who understand that I focus on the luxury level. That’s why Seven Apart Wines and I mesh so well.”

“The owner was able to buy a piece of land and wanted to create something exceptional. He had an incredible old vineyard at 420 metres above sea level and another smaller vineyard at the bottom of the valley. They completely replanted the valley floor and built a state-of-the-art modern facility. When Andy stopped working there to focus on personal matters, it made sense for me to take over that project to keep things consistent.

“I don’t like super-light elegance and I’m not a big new oak guy. I like the fruit to be ripe, not overripe, and to have a hint of oak to add complexity. But if you’re spending a lot of money on top-quality fruit, why over-age it? Let that terroir shine.”

“It’s about working with luxury. I love working with people who are passionate and trying to make people live their dream of owning a piece of Napa Valley. It’s the passion of wine. And walking through the vineyard is my happy place.”